Turnbull & Asser is an English menswear brand founded in 1885. It offers a wide range of ready-to-wear shirts; besides, you can order bespoke and made-to-order shirts from Turnbull & Asser. The minimum bespoke order is six shirts. More than Continue reading Turnbull & Asser shirts
А gusset (or la mouche in Italian) is a small piece of fabric which is inserted into the place where side seams meet the shirt hem. This piece of fabric can be triangular, rectangular, etc. Sometimes it features brand embroidering. Continue reading Gussets
When inspecting armpit areas of the best shirts, you can notice that long sleeve seams don’t match with side seams. It means that sleeves were set in and sewn on at the end of the manufacturing process. It helps to Continue reading Sleeves which are sewn on at the end
Top quality shirts always feature single-needle stitching. Single-needle seams can look very clean, neat and accurate. Moreover, they’re strong and durable, but the use of this technique increases production costs. It’s very easy to recognise single-needle side seams: you’ll see Continue reading Single-needle stitching and double-needle stitching
Buttons can be sewn with a thread shank or without it. If buttons are sewn with a thread shank, the garment will be easier to button, there will be no wrinkles around buttons (when the garment is buttoned), and buttons Continue reading Button shank
Mother-of-pearl (MOP) buttons are carved from oyster shells (Pinctada shells). They have a nice iridescent luster, so at certain angles you can notice a rainbow. However, some brands use the term ‘mother-of-pearl’ (‘MOP’) for troca (conch / Trochus shells), and Continue reading Mother-of-pearl buttons
Pocket squares can be machine-sewn, machine-rolled and hand-rolled. Some people mistake machine-rolled pocket squares for hand-rolled ones, but they look different. Here are two machine-rolled pocket squares – I hope you will notice that multitude of stitches (it’s less noticeable Continue reading Handrolled and machine-rolled
Shirtmakers use buttons which are made of plastic (this is the cheapest and the most popular option), corozo, horn, troca and mother-of-pearl (MOP). Troca buttons are carved from Trochus shells, while genuine mother-of-pearl buttons are carved from Pinctada shells (Oyster Continue reading Troca buttons
Alumo is a Swiss mill based in Appenzell. It produces the highest quality shirtings (according to Alexander Kabbaz, the best ones in the world – though not all shirtmakers agree with this opinion). The range of Alumo fabrics is quite Continue reading Alumo fabrics
Non-iron, easy iron, easy care and wrinkle free shirts are easier to iron than ‘regular’ shirts. However, it doesn’t mean that you don’t need to iron them at all – in most cases they need to be ironed, but you Continue reading Non-Iron and Easy Iron
Oeko-Tex Standard 100 is a textile certification system, which was introduced in 1992 by Oeko-Tex association (it consists of 18 independent institutes, which research and test textile products and develop certification rules). If an article complies with Oeko-Tex Standard 100, Continue reading Oeko-Tex Standard 100
Extra-long staple cotton (ELS cotton) is a cotton with fibres longer than 1,375 in. (34,925 mm). There are several varieties of ELS cotton: Sea Island, Egyptian, Pima / Supima. Fabrics made of ELS cotton are finer, smoother and feel nicer Continue reading Extra-Long Staple Cotton