Pocket squares can be machine-sewn, machine-rolled and hand-rolled. Some people mistake machine-rolled pocket squares for hand-rolled ones, but they look different. Here are two machine-rolled pocket squares – I hope you will notice that multitude of stitches (it’s less noticeable on white edges, but once you learn it, you’ll always recognise it).
Luigi Borrelli pocket square with machine-rolled edges (in this case they look accurate, but a bit flat).
Roda pocket square with machine-rolled edges (in this case they look inaccurate).
Now please take a look at pocket squares with hand-rolled edges. The stitches are far less noticeable, and the edges look different.
Turnbull & Asser pocket square with hand-rolled edges.
Simonnot-Godard pocket square with hand-rolled edges (macro view).
Of course, there are lots of pocket squares without machine-rolling – they’re simply machine-sewn and look quite cheap, though one cannot notice it if you fold your pocket square without exposing its edges.
Paul Smith handkerchief with machine-sewn edges.
Some brands that offer hand-rolled pocket squares: Brooks Brothers (not sure – always or not), Brunello Cucinelli, Calabrese, Canali, Charvet, Dolcepunta, Drake’s (not always), Duchamp (not always), Emma Willis, Ermenegildo Zegna (at least sometimes), Finamore (not always), Fort Belvedere, Gieves & Hawkes (not sure – always or not), Hermes, Isaia, Kent Wang, Kiton, Lanvin (not always), Polo Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Simonnot-Godard, Tom Ford, Turnbull & Asser.
Some brands that offer machine-rolled pocket squares: Berg&Berg, Boglioli (not always), Drake’s (not always), Dunhill, Duchamp (not always), Eton, Etro, Lanvin (not always), Luciano Barbera, Luigi Borrelli, Paul Smith (not always), Richard James, Roda, Rubinacci, Suitsupply, Tie Your Tie, Tino Cosma.